Lemnos

How I love Greek islands: So rustic, villages of stone houses with empty food cans for planters and cats on their doorsteps. Wooden window shutters shading the rooms inside, painted blue to highlight the whitewashed walls. 

We booked with Sunvil Travel and stayed at Afrodite Villas, Plati, Lemnos. We had a room in the new apartment block on the first floor with a balcony and sea view. The room was nicely furnished and the bed was exceptionally comfortable; so much so we wanted to bring it home! (We were told it was an orthopaedic bed). Fully airconditioned, cleaned daily, towels, hairdryer, plenty of coat-hangers and a nice fluffy white dressing gown.

It was our first holiday abroad together since Corfu in 2017 - life events and lockdown preventing the luxury of doing nothing but stare at the vastness of the ocean, soaking up Vitamin D and making simple decisions of where and what to eat, then watching the sun set.

We booked 7 days half-board which we could take the evening meals at the hotel as and when required during the 14 day stay. This enabled us to sample local tavernas too. A very satisfactory arrangement.

Having lived in Cyprus for 3 years (2000-2003) we had taken two cruises from Limmasol port. From there we visited many Greek islands - Lemnos being one which captivated us 21 years ago. It took us a long time to revisit! The hotel was a good 25-30 minute walk from the town and port of Myrina. Walking along 'the old road' in the heat of the day is uphill and no footpath; I had to stop for a bit of shade, drink of water and a sit on a wall. But the trek is worth it. 

Myrina Port

My Mama Mia moment

Myrina shaded shops and market place

Needless to say after the walk and exploring the shops and coffee cafes, we sat watching the fishermen mend nets and share their catch. A huge ferry came into dock and did a three-point turn in the mouth of the harbour, reversing to off-load passengers, cars and lorries. Maybe they have come over from Athens? (It reminded me of my solo adventure to Skyros, 8 years ago now! Scroll down the contents page to see 'The Big Adventure blogs posted June to Oct 2015 ) Then lunch which was in STO KASTRO restaurant (see my review on Trip Advisor). The food was magnificent and personally, the best meal of the fortnight, though a prawn spaghetti dish and the fish dishes at the hotel were wonderful too. There were nine plates of various salads and dips to go with the meal and, of course, always, a basket of local bread.

Shrimps in cream sauce

Full to bursting after the meal the owner was kind enough to call a taxi for us to get back to the hotel. A swift journey on the 'new road' took no time at all.

Days on the beach, which was a short walk across the road from the hotel, were so lovely. Sun beds placed in front of beach bars where you buy a coffee or other drink and maybe lunch or an ice cream enables you to use the beds, shades etc for free. A changing unit, WC and shower were also free to use.

Plati beach is surrounded by mountains. They rise and dip, mostly barren but for a lone concrete building (a shaded shelter for goats perhaps). Other hillsides sport holiday flats at its base then staged up the slopes, topped with a phone and tv aerial. The bay is about 1.5 miles long, yachts sail on the slight breeze and I listen to the rhythm of the ebbing and flowing tide. A seagull soars above and a couple paddle in the shallows before walking their way into the sea to plunge into the coldness of the salty, clear water.

The hotel gardens boast many ornate trees, flowers that are nameless to me and is visited occasionally by a feral cat or two. One night a week the hotel open its doors to others who want to experience 'Greek Night' where there is a buffet meal, music and plenty of happiness as guests clap along to familiar Greek and English tunes. It gets a little loud (or am I so very tired - how does that happen when I'm doing nothing but resting?) and I leave a little earlier than everyone else. But how very lovely to lie on my bed listening to the night's activity below.

 

There is a lane, very steep road up to Plati village next to the hotel. We climbed it twice. The second time we stayed for a village meal. We ate a starter of beef in filo pastry with tzatziki followed by moussaka. The setting was lovely 

Plati Village

The taverna was decorated with a yellow bike, red & yellow wellingtons and flowers.

We were sorry that Sunvil had not been able to run two of the three trips we would have liked to attend due to it not yet being the main holiday months and so fewer people in their two hotels. Pete especially would have loved the vineyard trip and Greek cookery lesson trip. However, on the very last day we had a fab Island tour in a lovely mini-bus. We stopped for coffee at Kalithea, saw converted windmills (now holiday residences) at Romanou, an archaeology site at Poliohmi, a church on a high point at Zoodochos pigi that had 64 steps down underneath to a deep water supply and a meal enough to feed an army at Giannakaros, Moudroa, just a short ride away. It was a grand end to our time in Lemnos.

All good things come to an end. We had made holiday friends and had to say 'goodbye'. I was amazed that so many of the hotel residents had been revisiting for 12, 16, 20 years. There is a 'family' feel to the place, a community of 'regulars'. I'm sure that is due to the staff being so friendly, helpful and charming.

 

The owner Afrodite and her son George in the reception area.

The bar ladies, the lovely Kiki and Angelina 

At Limnos airport the four check in desks were not very busy, unlike the huge expanse of Gatwick where we flew from (only one flight a week by Enter Air, a Polish airline). Check in is so much less stressful at smaller airports and soon we were seated and flying. The ground we had visited became a patchwork quilt of cream, green and brown fields below as we banked across the island that had captured our hearts. Saying a silent 'goodbye' to the sea and 'hello' to the clouds the plane rises and the restless passengers relax at the 'ping' of the 'ok' sign to be able to undo seatbelts heralding our now smooth passage homeward.

Children cry/scream, adults struggle to soothe them, amuse them, rock babies to sleep. Inaudible messages come over speakers and airhostesses do their patrolling up and down the aisle. The mountains disappear from the window view, only clouds hanging like cotton wool balls below us as the metal machine speeds across oceans and countries, occasionally shuddering in turbulence. Three hours and fifteen minutes and we see the green, green grass of home. Thankfully the sun has followed us.

Would we go again? God willing, Yes. Recommended for those who like peaceful, restful, holidays outside of the main season of July and August when I feel, the temperature would be unbearable.

June 8th - 22nd 2023